Baikal Izh 27 Manual Transfer
Got this 12 gauge Baikal Double barrel coming, that is a Russian, I think made in the Izmash armory. Its a side by side w/ ejectors. Probably the cheapest side by side w/ ejectors on the market, which is why I got it. Poor fit'n'finish but I don't care about that, eventually I will SBS it.Anyway, its safety engages every time you open the gun.
Does anyone know how to disable the auto-safe feature but still have it to be used electively, just not automatically?Edited to add: see further down for the caveats to removing the auto safe engage bar, and a description of how to do it to preclude both barrels firing at once.Also, see how I addressed a separate problem where the 'selector arm' was not always catching under the the sear hooks to discharge the second barrel.also about smoothing out the safety buttonhopefully this will help someone else. Originally Posted By GunCat:Take the stock off. Watch for the connecting rod that moves the safety button when you open the action lock lever. Remove the connecting rod.(Now before anyone gets too excited about disabling a safety keep in mind that the safety still works - but it now has to be manually pushed on or offjust like any 870, 500, high dollar target gunetc)Excellent!
Sounds very simple. How much stuff, besides the stock, to I have to take off or remove to get to the safety?Yeah, I don't want to hassle w/ the safety after a single barrel tactical reload or whatever.I’ve seen them carefully removed so they could be put back in and I’ve seen them removed with pliers and the proper application of enough force, Just look in there and you'll decide how you want to handle it. I got the mp210 and it works great! With a little ahooting it has loosened up a little and it ejects empties with authority.
Has lots of sharps edges and fit is awful And the safety is sometimes wicked hard to click off but she works great.W Anyway, how too take the butt off?? I see a screw holding the trigger guard down but that's it. Is it gonna be like the Saiga where I got to beat the stock off?ETA: I glued some sand paper to a tiny wood stick and sanded this part under the safety button where there must have been a burr. Not the safety button clicks on/off w/ a consistent and reasonable amount of force. Description of the problem caused by removing hte auto safe bar entirely:Dangling from the top of the receiver is an assembly called the 'selector arm assembly' that swings back and forth. When you open the action it is reset forward and is out of the way.
For the first barrel to fire, the trigger selector button directly pushes up on a sear lever. After you drop the first hammer, the selector arm assembly snaps to the rear under hooks on the rear of the sear levers. When the selector arm is under the two rear sear hooks, it ties the two sears together. When you pull the trigger again, the first sear will move the second sear via the selector arm causing the second hammer to fall.Now if the selector arm does not reset to the forward position when you open the action but it will defaults to the rear, it will be tying both sear hooks together and pulling he trigger once will lift both sear levers & make both hammers fall.When you remove the entire auto safe bar, it reduces how far the selector arm is pushed forward upon when opening the action.
This will make sense if you are looking at the gun while reading this. The very front end of the auto safe bar is nestled into a groove machined in the back end of the locking bolt (big square bolt that slides back and forth to lock under the lugs on the bottom of the barrels). That part of the auto safe bar is sandwiched between the locking bolt and this lever that pushes the selector arm assembly forward when the action is opened. Removing that part of the auto safe bar effectively makes the locking bolt shorter, so it doesn't quite have enough reach to lever the selector arm assembly quite far enough to reset. Therefore, every time you open the action, the selector arm stays in the rear position, tying both sears together for a double discharge.Description of how to remove the auto safe bar and re install the front piece:I don't think you can cut the bar right up there by the locking bolt w/ it in place. You might cut the middle of the bar and rip out rear half to make the front half easier to remove for further cutting.To lift that lever out of the way that captures the front of the auto safe bar against he locking bolt, squeeze it w/ some needle nose pliers.
Put one jaw under the lobe on the back of the lever, and the other on top of the unlocking lever bar on top of the receiver. Use tape or something to prevent scratching. When you get it out, cut off the front end of the auto safe bar, the part that goes between the locking bolt and that lever, leaving a little tab on there to hold on to.To reinstall, squeeze open the space w/ the pliers again, and use a second pair of needle nose pliers to put the (now) little piece back in there. An intermittent trigger reset problem w/ the 'selector arm assembly' has developed.:Sometimes, the selector arm is getting hung up. The result is that after discharging the first barrel, the trigger is not able to lift the sears to discharge the second barrel.The selector arm assembly does pivot to the rear after I fire the first barrel, but selector arm itself is getting hung against the faces of the hooks on the back of the sear levers. This happens if I am especially slow and gentle w/ the trigger. If I flick the trigger, let it snap forward once or twice, things will fall into place, but obviously this is unacceptable for a SD gun, or any gun really.The selector arm spring just need a tiny tiny bit more juice to push the selector arm down so it catches under the hooks in the rear of the sears in order to fire the second barrel (whichever).I polished all the mating surfaces I can w/o disassembly.
Baikal Izh 27 Manual Transfer Kit
I will have to remove the selector arm assembly and take it apart to polish the burrs inside the selector arm base on on the selector arm. I also need a source for a tiny.088/1.5mm OD spring that is just slightly stronger that will fit in the selector arm base.If no one has a part number from Wolff or brownells or mcMaster of a spring, how would I go about getting the info I need to source another one?Also, when I try to drive out the pin that the selector arm assembly dangles from I keep bending my 1/16' punch Pro tips???Thx. Fix for the problem where selector arm was getting hung and not snapping under the rear sear hooks:As to getting stubborn tiny pins out, I bought some extra 1/16' punches and shortened them so they are stiffer and can be used as starter punches.
Then you can use the longer, more fragile punches after you get it started.I eventually found a source for tiny springs. After I got the assembly removed and was able to mic the spring and know what I was looking for I called Wolff and looked on brownelles, McMaster, Grainger etc. Wolff did have a bag of like 50 assorted spring that might have had something that would have worked, but they didn't have details about exactly what was in there.
Anyway, I found a great company called Reid Industrial Supply that sold all sorts of tiny springs piecemeal. They were like $.50 each, US mail shipping & handling was only like $5. I got a few.I ended up settling on a a S-320, a.088' OD x.012' wire diameter x.5' long spring. The factory spring in there was made from.088 or smaller wire diameter, and was a hair longer.
Baikal Izh 35
The S-320 gave the extra power to always push the selector arm down, and it would not get over compressed in the assembly. The trigger is a little heavier for it though, but no big deal to me. If I cared more about the trigger, I probably would have cut down a 3/4' long spring made from.010' wire diameter, part # S-310.Anyway, now it is 100% and way better than any Stoeger ever hoped to be on account of its ejectors. If I was like upper middle class and didn't have time for project guns, I probably would have just bough a beretta or browning double to chop.